The Bernina Express in winter
A red train, a white world and a spiral viaduct that I'm still not sure I believe in.
Some train journeys are a way of getting somewhere. The line over the Bernina Pass is the destination. It climbs from the Swiss Alps to over two thousand metres without a single rack section, then drops down towards Italy, past glaciers, frozen lakes and villages that seem to be holding on to the slope with their fingertips.
Window seat strategy
- Sit on the right-hand side heading south for the glacier views.
- The panoramic carriages are lovely; the regular regional trains run the same line, open their windows and cost much less.
- Bring sunglasses. Snow and sun at altitude are no joke.
The spiral
Near the end of the line the track has to lose height fast, so it does something wonderful: it loops around on itself on a stone viaduct, passing under its own arches. From the carriage you can see the rails you'll be on in a minute, curving away below you.
Snow muffles everything. Even the train sounded polite.
We arrived in Tirano in sunshine, with palm trees by the station, four hours and one whole climate after leaving the snow.